Sourdough
Bread
The sour taste of Sourdough
Bread actually comes not from the yeast, but from a
lactobacillus, with which the yeast lives in symbiosis.
The lactobacillus feeds on the byproducts of the yeast
fermentation, and in turn makes the culture go sour by
excreting lactic acid, which protects it from spoiling
(since most microbes are unable to survive in an acid
environment). All breads used to be sourdoughs, and the
leavening process was not understood until the 19th
century, when with the advance of microscopes, scientists
were able to discover the microbes that make the dough
rise. Since then, strains of yeast have been selected and
cultured mainly for reliability and quickness of
fermentation.
Billions of cells
of these strains are then packaged and marketed as
"Baker's Yeast". Bread made with baker's yeast
is not sour because of the absence of the lactobacillus.
Bakers around the world quickly embraced baker's yeast for
it made baking simple and so allowed for more flexibility
in the bakery's operations. It made baking quick as well,
allowing bakeries to make fresh bread from scratch as
often as three times a day. While European bakeries kept
producing sourdough breads, in the U.S., sourdough baking
was widely replaced by baker's yeast, and only recently
has that country (or parts of it, at least) seen the
rebirth of sour-vinegar dough in artisan bakeries.
Sourdough breads
are most often made with a sourdough starter (not
to be confused with the starter method discussed above). A
sourdough starter is a culture of yeast and lactobacillus.
It is essentially a dough-like or pancake-like flour/water
mixture in which the yeast and lactobacilli live. A
starter can be maintained indefinitely by periodically
discarding a part of it and refreshing it by adding
fresh flour and water. (When refrigerated, a starter can
go weeks without needing to be fed.)
There are
starters owned by bakeries and families that are several
human generations old, much revered for creating a special
taste or texture. Starters can be obtained by taking a
piece of another starter and growing it, or they can be
made from scratch. There are hobbyist groups on the web
who will send their starter for a stamped, self-addressed
envelope, and there are even mail-order companies that
sell different starters from all over the world. An
acquired starter has the advantage to be more proven and established
(stable and reliable, resisting spoiling and behaving
predictably) than from-scratch starters.
There are other
ways of sourdough baking and culture maintenance. A more
traditional one is the process that was followed by
peasant families throughout Europe in past centuries. The
family (usually the woman was in charge of bread making)
would bake on a fixed schedule, perhaps once a week. The
starter was saved from the previous week's dough. The
starter was mixed with the new ingredients, the dough was
left to rise, then a piece of it was saved (to be the
starter for next week's bread). The rest was formed into
loaves which were marked with the family sign (this is
where today's decorative slashing of bread loaves
originates from), and taken to the communal oven to bake.
These communal ovens over time evolved into what we know
today as bakeries, when certain people specialized in
bread baking, and with time enhanced the process so far as
to be able to mass produce cheap bread for everyone in the
village.
San Francisco
sourdoughs
The most famous
sourdough bread made in the U.S. is the San Francisco
Sourdough, which in contrast to the majority of the
country has remained in continuous production for nearly
150 years, with some bakeries able to trace their starters
back to California's territorial period. It is a white
bread, characterized by a pronounced sourness (not all
sourdoughs are as sour as the San Francisco Sourdough), so
much so that the dominant strain of lactobacillus in
sourdough starters was named Lactobacillus sanfrancisco.
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